Collesta Youth Serum

A serum has been created that represents a combination of valuable and effective botanicals in concentrations that have been shown in published medical studies to be therapeutically beneficial for the skin including a reduction in metalloproteinase activity, attenuation of oxygen free radicals, reduction of inflammation, reduced melanization and an improved aqueous barrier, therefore improving moisture retention. The serum contains effective concentrations of turmeric extract, viola tricolor, red ginseng, algae oil, sea buckhorn, rice(ortyza sativa) derivatives, rose absolute, blue lotus, and Boswellia gum resin. All of these agents have potentially interesting and diverse effects that are relevant to the antiaging process and provide a prophylactic measure to lessen the cutaneous aging process.  Niacinamide has also been added and while it is not a botanical extract it has certain beneficial effects that are synergistic with the aforesaid botanical extracts. In addition, there is a mixture of pure fragrant but also therapeutic essential oils at a 1% concentration represented by sweet orange, red mandarin, blood orange, rose, jasmine, tuberose, magnolia champaca, sandalwood, neroli and frankincense procured from the finest of organic essential oil companies such as Eden Botanical and Enfleurage. In addition, there is 24 carat cosmetic gold purchased through CornAucopia Gold leaf manufacturing company.

This antiaging serum uses as its vehicle a neutral moisturizing base similar to any base used in standard topical skin preparations. The serum has a unique color that is perhaps most reminiscent of mango and reflects the various endogenous red, orange, and yellow pigments found in the diverse botanicals such as sea buckthorn, algal oil, moringa oil, Korean  black ginseng, certain essential oil extracts  especially the  peony, viola tricolor, the blue lotus, rose absolute and turmeric; in addition  the  fragrant oil mixture has a very deep amber hue attributable to the color of the rose, tuberose, sweet orange, blood orange, jasmine and magnolia champaca.   

The basis of the combined ingredients as a topical product that has the potential to enhance the intrinsic health of the epidermis and dermis will be discussed presently. All of the products are naturally occurring plant derived compounds with scientifically proven effects that would be deemed efficacious in maintaining and promoting healthy skin. An additional non-botanical agent is used, namely niacinamide.  The components of the youth serum are similar to the Collesta cream however the concentrations of each effective agent is slightly different and as well there is the addition of algal oil, moringa oil, rose damask absolute, blue lotus extract and 4 rice derived products are used represented by rice bioferment, rice starch, rice water, and rice hydrosalate. In addition, instead of red ginseng black ginseng is used. The base is one fortified with collagen.  Each ingredient will be considered separately with a focus on the potential beneficial effects on the skin that each of the products has based on studies published in peer reviewed papers.

Each of the components of the serum will be discussed in some detail; an emphasis will be given on the effects of each product as potential contributing to facial rejuvenation. Some of the information is repeated in the scientific summary of the original Collesta cream.

 

ALGAL OIL

Algae Oil – 40% docosahexaenoic acid(DHA) is a vegan  alternative to animal-derived sources of Omega-3 essential fatty acids. It is derived from   Schizochytrium species of algae. The oil that is produced has a very unique bright orange to red appearance. It also has a characteristic flavor and aroma which fortunately does not resemble fish oil. Its viscosity is temperature dependent.  Due to naturally occurring saturated fatty acids, the viscosity varies. The viscosity increases as temperature decreases. Algae oil contains 40% docosahexaenoic acid(DHA) making it the one edible food product that has the highest concentration of naturally occurring DHA.

Having a minimum of 40% docosahexaenoic acid(DHA), algal oil has been growing in popularity as a plant-based supplement option of omega-3 fatty acids essential for the human body and overall health. Algae oil, often referred to as algal oil, when applied directly to the skin provides deep moisturization, anti-aging properties, and can improve overall skin color. Algal oils do not have cholesterol and they also do not have an unpleasant fish order associated with the fish derived version of docosahexaenoic acid. They are also no contaminants such as mercury. Algal oil is odorless and tasteless. Docosahexaenoic acid is a principal fatty acid found in neurological tissue,retina rod outer segments,  heart muscle and sperm cells. Limited storage of these fatty acids in adipose tissue suggests that a dietary source is needed.  Microalgae are an important alternative source of DHA and are the basis of the high content of DHA in fish as fish feed on algae. One of the key proteins mediating the inflammatory signals in UV-induced injury is cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), which catalyzes the biosynthesis process of prostaglandins. In addition to sunscreens, some photoprotective agents are needed to provide advantages against UV-induced skin damage. The fatty acids derived from fish oil have been considered to be associated with the skin’s photoprotection. Omega-3 can decrease the production of proinflammatory eicosanoids through direct competition with the metabolism of arachidonic acid. Alternative effects of omega-3 polyunsaturated acids for the suppression of UV induced keratinocyte damage is the regulation of COX-2, NF-Κb, and mitogen-activated protein kinase. Interleukin (IL)-8, a proinflammatory cytokine belonging to the C-X-C chemokine subfamily, is of major significance in the mediation of UVB-induced keratinocyte inflammation. DHA reduces IL-8 by 65% after UV irradiation. DHA inhibits UV-induced apoptosis, increasing the Bax/Bcl-2 ratio and decreased COX-2 by the inhibition of a COX-2 mRNA stabilizer in keratinocytes. 

 

BLUE EGYPTIAN LOTUS (NELUMBO NUCIFERA)

Nelumbo nucifera (blue Egyptian lotus) is a well-known edible plant widely grown in Asia, including Korea, China, and Japan.  Lotusine is a phytochemical and soluble alkaloid found in lotus embryos. All components of the lotus flower have potential medical and nutritional benefits.  It has been suggested that Nelumbo nucifera lotus flower extract has a bleaching effect on the skin and diminishes wrinkles although the mechanisms by which these purported changes occur are unclear. It has now been recently established that lotusine which is a phytochemical and soluble alkaloid could be the effective ingredient as it has been shown to reduce solar ultraviolet induced metalloproteinase 1 expression and solar induced ultraviolet -induced activator protein(AP)-1 and NF-κB  activity stimulated by  multiple signal transduction cascades, including the p38 MAPK, JNK, ERK1/2, and Akt pathways in the skin. Lotusine inhibited the MEK1/2-ERK1/2-p90^RSK, MKK3/6-p38, and Akt-p70^S6K pathways reducing transcriptional activities of AP-1 and nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB).  Another active ingredient is JKTM-12 which is composed of the flowers, roots, seeds, and receptacles of Nelumbo nucifera (the Egyptian blue lotus). In this study, JKTM-12 was investigated for its inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. JKTM-12 was shown to inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells. JKTM-12 has the potential for skin whitening with hyperoside and astragalin as the main bioactive compounds. Nelumbo nucifera has long been used in traditional medicine in East Asian countries such as China and Korea. In another study the authors found that adipogenesis was stimulated by administration of dichloromethyl (DCM) or n-hexan extract of Nelumbo nucifera. They also show that topical administration of DCM extract of Nelumbo nucifera attenuated ultraviolet-B (UVB)-mediated wrinkle formation and reduction of subcutaneous fat in vivo.  The authors found that UVB-induced expression of cytokines (interleukin-6; IL-6, interleukin-8; IL-8, and monocyte chemotactic protein-3; MCP3), which were reported as regulators in subcutaneous fat metabolism, was attenuated in mouse skin fibroblast cells upon administration of the DCM extract.   In summation the blue lotus extract would have beneficial rejuvenating effects related to a reduction in wrinkles on sun damaged skin and evening of pigmentation.

 

BOSWELLIC GUM RESIN

The resin of Boswellia species has been used as incense in religious and cultural ceremonies and in medicines since time immemorial. Boswellia serrata (Salai/Salai guggul), is a moderate to large sized branching tree of family Burseraceae (Genus Boswellia), grows in dry mountainous regions of India, Northern Africa and Middle East.

Boswellic acid has been used to treat various ailments in different cultures for thousands of years.   Aflapin is a novel synergistic product derived from Boswellia gum resin that is a significantly better anti-inflammatory agent compared to the Boswellia extracts presently available on the market.  The gum resins from the tropical tree Boswellia have been traditionally orally administered for the treatment of several inflammatory diseases and cancer because of their immunomodulatory and anti-inflammatory properties.  One recent study found that 0.5% concentration of Boswellic acid delivered in a neutral cream base could lead to a significant reduction in photoaging of facial skin after 30 days particularly in regards to tactile roughness and fine lines. Boswellic extract at 2% has a significant effect on reducing inflammation at sites of breast irradiation following a mastectomy for breast cancer.

Boswellic acids are the pentacyclic triterpenes with a strong anti-inflammatory line of action with the most important source of Boswellia being Boswellia serrata, a tropical tree that grows in India and Africa.  The Boswellia extracts are known to inhibit various metalloproteinases including metalloproteinases 1, 3, 10, and 12 transcriptions in fibroblasts and endothelial cells, especially in regard to metalloproteinase 1, hence playing a potential pivotal role in preventing the cleavage of dermal fibrillar collagen, a key mechanism of causing dermal damage.  Boswellia extract has an anti-inflammatory effect that is mediated by the inhibition of TAK/TAB-mediated I kappa B kinase phosphorylation that activates the nuclear factor kappa beta translocation to the nucleus.  Boswellia extract also enhances the metabolism of fibroblasts and inhibits leukocyte elastase. 

 

CURCUMIN (TUMERIC)

 An additional ingredient is turmeric which has a very effective chemical in it namely turmeric.  Curcumin has been demonstrated to have potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity; strongly repressing matrix metalloproteinase 9 gene expression as well as activation of activated protein 1(AP1) induced by tumor promotors.  AP1 as implicated in the process of aging because it induces the formation of metalloproteinases, which cause degradation of interstitial collagen fibers.  Curcumin, a component of the spice turmeric, was tested for its potential hormetic anti-aging effects as an inducer of mild stress. Young skin fibroblasts incubated with low doses of curcumin exhibit a reduction in heme oxygenase followed by a compensatory increase in glutathione S transferase activity.   Curcumin also induced nuclear factor-erythroid-2-related factor 2 accumulation in the nuclei. The use of the antioxidant N-acetyl cysteine prevented the induction of HO-1 by curcumin.  In another study, the authors created a herbal extract based cream at 1% using  Zingiber officinale Roscoe, Atractylodes chinensis (Bunge) Kodiz, Curcuma longa L., and Cinnamomum cassia (L.) J.Presl (ZACC extract) Among the wrinkle parameters, R1 (skin roughness) and R4 (smoothness depth) values were significantly improved after the application of the herbal cream compared to those observed after application of the placebo cream for 12 weeks.

 

FERMENTED BLACK GINSENG

There are two primary types of ginseng specifically white ginseng and red ginseng. The new black ginseng is produced from white ginseng through 9 cycles of repeated steam distillation.
Fermented black ginseng (FBG) is processed by the repeated steaming and drying of fresh ginseng followed by fermentation with Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Black ginseng is known to possess potent anti‑oxidative effects. The effective concentration that will reduce wrinkles, upregulate collagen synthesis, decrease metalloproteinase 1 activity and inhibit melanin synthesis to have a whitening effect is 1%.  Patients experienced a reduction in wrinkles and brighter skin after 8 weeks of application. In vitro studies showed inhibition of collagenase, and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and MMP-2 and a reduction in tyrosinase activity and DOPA (3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine) oxidation were significantly decreased at all tested concentrations. Melanin production in B16F1 cells was concentration-dependently reduced from 15% to 60% by all concentrations of FBG. These results suggested that a 1% FBG cream exerted anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects. Similar effects are seen with red ginseng.

 

HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES (SEA BUCKTHORN)                  

Hippophae Rhamnoides is the proper binomial designation for sea buckthorn.  Other less formal designations include sandthorn, sallow thorn or seaberry. Its classification includes the or Oleaster family and Hippophae L. and of the Hippophae rhamnoides L. species.

Sea-buckthorn oil represents an extraction product procured from the fruit and seeds of sea buckthorn. There are numerous ingredients in the oil that make it a very attractive agent that has been successfully used in the cosmetic industry and in medicine for many years. Valuable substances contained in sea-buckthorn oil contribute to a smooth glowing appearing skin.  Its unique unsaturated fatty acids, such as palmitoleic acid (omega-7) and gamma-linolenic acid (omega-6), give sea-buckthorn oil skin regeneration and repair properties.  As the gamma-linolenic acid is converted to prostaglandins, sea-buckthorn oil protects could have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Studies have suggested that Sea Buckhorn can restore lipid integrity in the stratum corneum. It has significant photoprotective effects including an inhibition of the formation of reactive oxygen species likely through hydrolysable tannins, a major antioxidant found in sea.

5% sea buckthorn was very effective in improving the skin barrier function leading to better retention of moisture. Skin hydration and transepidermal water loss were performed whereby objectives differences were observed.

Human keratinocytes and fibroblasts subjected to UVA or UVB radiation demonstrated a reduction in the generation of reactive oxygen species when incubated with sea buckthorn oil. Sea buckthorn oil can reduce UV induced reactive oxygen species generation.

Sea buckthorn oil increases the level of non-enzymatic antioxidants such as glutathione (GSH), thioredoxin (Trx) and vitamins E and A. Moreover, it stimulates the activity of Nrf2 leading to enhanced antioxidant enzyme activity.  Sea buckthorn oil treatment increases the level of phospholipid and free fatty acids, while simultaneously decreasing the cannabinoid receptor expression in UV irradiated keratinocytes and fibroblasts.

The oral ingestion of sea buckthorn has been associated with a decrease in wrinkle formation following the administration of UV irradiation in a murine model. The sea buckthorn also significantly reduced transdermal water loss and is associated with an increase in skin moisture content.   Its oral ingestion in the animals resulted in a reduction in metalloproteinase-9 expression while superoxide dismutase   activity was increased dramatically.

Sea buckthorn can also accelerate wound healing compared to conventional silver sulfadiazine. The best combination in fact was a mixture of olive oil and sea buckthorn. The hybrid sea buckthorn and olive oil combination was associated with improved epithelialization, mature granulation tissue and enhanced integrity of the epithelial basement membrane zone.

In summation sea buckthorn has many beneficial effects including the improvement of the water barrier hence exhibiting natural moisturizing properties, photoprotective effects, accelerating the natural healing process in traumatized skin and exhibiting some additional benefit in reversing photoaging.

 

PEONY

The peony has been used in traditional cosmetic practice in Chinese primarily as an oral treatment for pigmentary disorders for centuries; it was a prized extract knowns for its skin lighting effects. Direct application of peony extract to the skin   significantly inhibited poly (I:C)-induced expression of crucial psoriatic cytokines, such as IL-6, IL-8, CCL20 and TNF-α, via down-regulation of NF-κB signaling pathway in human keratinocytes. In addition, peony extract   inhibited poly (I:C)-induced inflammasome activation, in terms of IL-1β and caspase-1 secretion. Finally, peony extract markedly inhibited poly (I:C)-increased NLRP3, an important component of inflammasome. These results indicate that peony extract has an inhibitory effect on poly (I:C)-induced inflammatory reaction of keratinocytes, suggesting that peony extract can be developed for the treatment of various proinflammatory disorders including psoriasis.  Another study examined the efficacy of paeniflorin at a concentration of 0.5% in reducing wrinkles. The results of this study indicated that there was a significant reduction in facial wrinkling when applied daily for 8 weeks both in the context of skin replica models and blinded assessment by a dermatologist. In another study the 0.5% paeniflorin preparation was extracted from the root of the Paeonia albiflor. Compared to vehicle (dimethyl sulfoxide DMSO), a significant decrease in 2D and 3D melanin content was observed after topical application on reconstructed pigmented epidermis of Paeonia lactiflora extract at 300 μg mL(-1) (-28% and -27%, respectively) and paeoniflorin at 120 μg mL(-1) /250 μM (-30% and -23%, respectively), which is in the same order of magnitude as the positive reference 4-n-butylresorcinol at 83 μg mL(-1) /500 μM (-26% and -40%, respectively).

 

MORINGA OIL

The Moringa plant has been known for centuries for its healing properties both topically and when administered orally. It is also referred to as the horseradish tree and is limited in its distribution being found primarily in India and the sub-Himalayas.  It was used in Ancient Egypt as a valuable body skin rejuvenating agent.  It has now resurfaced in current times as a potential topical product that can have significant antiaging effects.  The scientific literature has focused on the ability of Moringa oil to reduce inflammation and diminish epidermal proliferation which are potential morphologic features that can be a cardinal hallmark of the aging skin. The major fatty acid in moringa oil is oleic acid, which is widely recommended in the preparation of pharmaceutical ointments. It has high cosmetic value, helps to remove dirt from the skin and is considered as superb cleansing agent. Egyptians used MOO in the treatment of skin disorders, as smoothing, moisturizing and oiling agent for the treatment of dry skin and therapeutic massages 

 

NIACINAMIDE

Niacinamide, an amide of vitamin B3 (niacin), is a hydrophilic endogenous substance. Its effects after epicutaneous application have long been described in the literature. Given a sufficient bioavailability, niacinamide has antipruritic, antimicrobial, antiwrinkling, vasoactive, photo-protective, sebostatic and lightening effects depending on its concentration. Within a complex metabolic system niacinamide controls the NFκB-mediated transcription of signaling molecules by inhibiting the nuclear poly (ADP-ribose) polymerase-1 (PARP-1). Niacinamide is a well-tolerated and safe substance often used in cosmetics.   The concentrations that are effective in achieving antiaging benefits is high and around 4%.

In 2018 Philips and co-workers showed that nicotinamide and its derivatives stimulated fibrillar collagen and heat shock protein in dermal fibroblasts.  Ultraviolet radiation stimulates elastin but inhibits fibrillin 1 and 2 in dermal fibroblasts. In this study they showed that topical niacin and its derivative stimulate the expression of elastin, fibrillin 1 and 2 in nonirradiated and UVA irradiated fibroblasts and directly inhibited both elastase and metalloproteinase activity. Overall niacin at desired concentrations has both a lightning effect but also improves dermal integrity.

    

RICE  

Rice [Oryza sativa cv. indica (Oryzeae)] extracts have been used in many Asian traditional medicines for the treatment of diabetes, inflammation, gastrointestinal disorders, cardiovascular disease, and in diuretics. Furthermore, eye lotions developed from rice are a traditional Malaysian remedy and Ayurveda prescriptions also make note of the use of a rice ointment to cure skin ailments and to combat skin aging.  Rice based skin remedies are not limited to Asia but also defines an integral component of active ingredients utilized in a traditional Italian remedy for skin smoothing and lightening.

Rice has a high content of   p-coumaric, ferulic and caffeic acids. Rice products can suppress melanogenesis via tyrosinase and TRP-2 inhibitory effects, which protect the cell from oxidative stress at doses of 0.1mg/ml or lower.  Rice can increase  skin hydration levels relative to baseline. Skin lightening, and anti-wrinkle effects related to skin firmness and smoothness has been observed, in addition to a reduction in skin wrinkling.  Rice is affective primarily through its significant concentration of phenolics likely defining the main antiaging benefit.

Ceramides plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function. Skin hydration, firmness and elasticity, transepidermal water loss, melanin index, erythema index, sebum production, pH, and wrinkle severity were assessed at baseline and during monthly follow-up visits. RC supplementation was found to significantly (p < 0.01) improve skin hydration, sebum production, firmness and elasticity, and wrinkle severity for three assessed areas, namely the left cheek, dorsal neck, and right inner forearm. Additionally, RC significantly (p < 0.01) reduced the rates of transepidermal water loss, levels of melanin index and erythema index.

 

ROSE ABSOLUTE

Forcenturies Rose oil has been thought to have beauty enhancing properties in regards the appearance of the skin.  The pathophysiologic basis is likely multifactorial. Topical in vivo applications of rose oil from the petals of Rosa damascena (Miller) have been reported to improve skin barrier function and promote keratinocyte differentiation. Furthermore, antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of rose oil have been observed. The mechanism may lie in the enhanced expression of involucrin, which is a marker of keratinocyte differentiation. Rose oil extract also increased the level of filaggrin in cultured keratinocytes. Overall, the beneficial effect of rose oil is in the context of improving barrier function by its positive effects on the integrity of the stratum corneum.

There are generally two species of roses that are used in skin care: rosa damascena and rosa centifola. The former, often hailing from Bulgaria, has a deep, potent scent; the latter, known as the cabbage rose or the Moroccan rose, has a lighter, clean and sweet scent. Both are valued for their pure essential oils, derived from the rose flowers.   It takes tens of thousands of rose blossoms, picked as they are unfolding in the early hours of dawn, to yield 1 ounce of rose essential oil. That makes rose oil one of the most expensive essential oils; it's so concentrated, however, that only a few drops are necessary to reap the benefits.

Roses are known for their intense hydrating properties, which make them perfect for mature and dry skin. Rose extract is “a cell rejuvenator that help minimize scars, stretch marks and wrinkles,” says beauty specialist and aromatherapist Janice Rosenthal, owner of Garden of Essences. “It heals broken veins and calms inflamed or sunburnt skin.”

Some of the earliest work to indicate the potential health and dermatologic benefits of R. damascene dates to the late 1970s. 

Rose essential oil acts as a superb emollient to moisturize skin, protecting the skin from moisture loss and preventing free radicals and toxins from entering the skin. The skin’s moisture barrier is a critical part of the immune system, and helps the skin maintain its proper level of nutrients.

If you strip your skin of moisture using harsh cleansers, your skin is likely to start over-producing oil to compensate. Roses can help balance the hydration of skin, which in turn can help prevent excess oil production.

The high levels of antioxidants and fatty acids in rose essential oil and rose hip seed oil can also help maintain a proper balance of moisture in the skin, which is essential to effectively fight acne.  The high vitamin C content can also help fade acne scars and prevent new hyperpigmentation from forming.

Investigators isolated a strain of cultured cells of the plant that displayed strong resistance to UV radiation (254 nm) and generated a greater amount of polyphenols (primarily flavonoids) during the latter stages of culture growth. They found that this UV resistance was associated with increased polyphenolic production.

In 2003, investigators assessed various extracts of R. damascena for its capacity as an antisolar agent in absorbing UV. The presence of flavonoids as the primary constituents of the extracts was verified before investigators identified the UV absorption spectra, with all three extracts found to be effective in absorbing UV in the 200- to 400-nm range. Next, the team incorporated the extracts into oil-in-water creams at 5% and 8% concentrations. The hydroalcoholic extract provided the highest sun protection factor (SPF), but the cream containing 5% ether extract rendered the most satisfactory appearance and stability. The authors ascribed the UV absorption ability of the extracts to the flavonoid constituents and noted that other synthetic antisolar compounds might be added to R. damascena extracts to enhance overall product efficacy.

In 2005, Schiber et al. extracted and characterized flavonol glycosides from R. damascena petals following industrial distillation for essential oil recovery. After analyzing 22 constituents, kaempferol and quercetin were the only flavonoids (specifically, flavonols) detected, with kaempferol compounds accounting for 80% of the compounds measured. In noting the high flavonol content (approximately 16 g/kg in dry weight), the researchers concluded that R. damascene represents a promising source of natural antioxidants.

In a late 2010 study using a reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatographic (RP-HPLC) method to simultaneously measure the flavonols, flavones, and phenolic acids as important constituents in various fruits, vegetables, and medicinal plants, R. damascena was identified as one of the species, along with Solidago virgaurea, Ginkgo biloba, and Camellia sinensis (the source of green tea), as having the highest flavonoid content.

As German scientists explained in a 2010 article, one of the most intriguing aspects of rose essential oil is that, “For substances applied in rose oil, a clear relationship between their lipophilic character, chemical structure, and skin permeation could be confirmed”.

Containing a complex array of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, rose essential oil has excellent emollient properties for moisturizing dry skin; it also offers antiseptic and astringent properties to treat acneic skin, as well as anti-inflammatory properties that help treat redness and inflammation. Rose oil can also help refine skin texture, controlling skin diseases such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. A study has even shown that rose essential oil can help heal wounds, as inhaling it inhibits water loss in the skin and lowers the concentration of cortisol (a stress hormone) in the body.

 

VIOLA TRICOLOR        

Viola Tricolor is an integral component of the Collesta serum.  

Viola tricolor is a unique and distinctive plant that has long been known for its significant anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity.  Another term for Viola tricolor is heartsease, also known as the royal pansy.  The active ingredients in Viola tricolor responsible for its potent medicinal properties are polyphenols.  The utilization of Viola tricolor has been established for many years defining an integral ingredient in therapeutic phytomedicine. Flavonoids, saponins, ascorbic acid and tocopherol are among potent products found in Viola Tricolor.  One of the most critical elements are the antioxidant flavonoid compounds especially rutin. Flavonoids, which are found in this plant, have been utilized in dermatology and in cosmetics for many years.  It has been shown that the flavonoids are able to permeate the stratum corneum and reach the viable layers of the epidermis and dermis. Rutins, one of the effective compounds in the Viola based flavonoids, are known to inhibit collagenase and metalloproteinase 9.  Rutin is a type of quercetin glycoside and is also referred to as vitamin P representing a member of the bioflavonoid family. The rutins represent potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents. Rutin is also capable of decreasing capillary fragility and has an inhibitory effect of intravascular thrombosis. The increase in the metalloproteinase can be significantly reduced by Viola tricolor gel (3%) following ultraviolet irradiation. In addition to rutins, salicylic acid and the tannins are likely additional potent products that contribute to the beneficial effects of the ingredient. Flavonol glycoside derived from Viola reduced UV induced metalloproteinase I expression.  As previously mentioned, matrix metalloproteinase 1 is upregulated in photoaged skin and contributes to the degradation of the collagen and elastic tissue matrix of the skin. The tannins also found in Viola tricolor have bactericidal and fungicidal activity and facilitate the healing process of wounds, burns, and inflammation.  Another study found that rutin in the crude extract of the Violet tricolor had better antioxidant activity largely attributable to the high level of polyphenols, flavonoids and tannins. Rutin reduces H2O2 induced cellular senescence. Rutin reduces metalloproteinase I and enhances the production of collagen 1. The length and number of wrinkles is significantly reduced, dermal density and dermal elasticity improved after 4 weeks.  The polysaccharides from Viola tricolor have been shown to improve epidermal moisturization by increasing aquaporins-3 activity within the dermis. In the skin, aquaporins-3 function as the mechanism that allows water to move against the concentration gradient to where water is deficient. Improving osmotic function is a novel approach for improving skin moisture. Research studies have indicated that aqua­porins-3 are involved in skin hydration, elasticity and barrier function and wound healing.

 

 

 

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