Aromatherapy Bespoke Eau de Collesta, Body Oil, Face Oil and Soap

The essence of Collesta's Eau de Collesta, Body oil, Face oil and Body Soap constitute a magical blend of the rare and exotic rejuvenating yet deliciously scented botanicals that are found within the Collesta Cream and Collesta Toner plus a few additional extracts such as neroli, sandalwood, and magnolia champaca. The face and body oil represent special blends of rejuvenating oils including jojoba, camellia, argan, grapeseed, sea buckthorn, algae and apricot kernel.

The chosen plant-based floral essential oils have found significant application in aromatherapy, the latter defined simply as a holistic approach that uses the smells of plant extracts either inhaled or applied directly to the skin to promote spiritual and physical wellbeing. The essential plant oils were selected not only because of their beautiful and fragrant quality but also, they have a proven scientific role in facial and body skin rejuvenation although their specific efficacy at the low concentrations chosen is unclear. Some additional points are presented here about these fascinating plant extracts. It is reasonable to use the designation of bespoke as they are handmade and have a composition not dissimilar to what has been used in beauty apothecary preparations from centuries past.

Many of the essential oils extracted from rare plants function not only for their olfactory benefits but also their positive effects on facial and body skin rejuvenation. Hence as beautiful and fragrant as the various essential oils such as jasmine, rose, tuberose and magnolia one must consider their potential efficacy in inhibiting intrinsic and photoaging of the skin.

Every essential oil has a unique historical precedent of their use over centuries cemented in ancient beauty rituals. Melded together the oils produce an ethereal and luminescent multilayered complex aromatic and rejuvenating experience. Among the plant extracts used in the Collesta, face oil, body oil and soap are frankincense, sandalwood, black pepper, sweet orange, red mandarin, blood orange, bergamot, neroli and select florals namely white lotus, pink lotus, rose, jasmine, patchouli, magnolia champaca, and tuberose.

A Few Key Points About a Few of the Essential Oil Ingredients Used in the Original Aromatherapy Collesta Formulation and Collesta Face Oil

White and Pink Lotus

White and pink lotus used in the original bespoke Collesta products are derived from extant species of aquatic plant in the family Nelumbonaceae. The colloquial designation is a water lily. The lotus extract has an earthy, sweet fruity and floral undertone. This plant was very popular in Ancient Egypt and in fact was frequently found in hieroglyphic works of art. These plants have seeds that can live for as long as 1300 years and therefore is a well-deserved symbol of longevity.

Bergamot

Bergamot is a citrus fruit that represents a hybrid between the lime and bitter orange. Bergamot is very fragrant citrus that has the appearance of an orange but the color of a lime or lemon. It was the basis of the earliest cologne used in Europe with the oil being first recognized for its uniqueness and application in the beauty industry as early as the 1600s. It blends well with other floral-based essential oils. It is rich in flavonoids but does have photosensitizing properties at higher concentrations. It was used in the original eau de Cologne produced in Germany at the beginning of the eighteenth century. In another study, topical bergamot applied to the back of mice for a period of 42 days was associated with an overall increase in collagen production in the dermis and there was a significant increase in superoxide dismutase production. Superoxide dismutase catalyzes superoxide anion into molecular oxygen and hydrogen peroxide and therefore has very potent antioxidant properties (Lin-xiang S et al, 2003).

Neroli

Neroli oil is an essential oil produced from the blossom of the bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantium subsp. amara or bigaradia). It has both a sweet and spicy smell. Neroli is extracted by steam distillation. Neroli is high in terpenes which are aromatic hydrocarbons and provide a glow to the skin and has antiaging properties. It has proven anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant activity and is also rich in vitamin C.

Red Mandarin and Blood Orange

Red mandarin is derived from the peel of the ripe mandarin fruit and is rich in vitamin C. The scent from this citrus-based oil is described as intense, sweet, fruity yet tangy and floral. Blood Orange is a variant of the sweet orange and named according to the rich color in the fruit segments. It is aromatically similar to sweet orange although with perhaps a richer citrus aroma. The oil can be applied sparingly to skin to help reduce inflammation and redness, as well as aches and pains. As with the red mandarin the oil is derived from the peel. Mandarins are widely consumed unripe as mandarin oranges (Citrus unshiu Marcov.), which exhibit anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle effects by inhibiting the production of inflammatory cytokines and matrix metalloproteinase. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study was performed to verify the skin improvement efficacy and safety of mandarin extract. Skin elasticity, moisture content, transepidermal water loss, and gloss were also measured. In the study results, the depth, volume, and skin roughness of the periorbital wrinkles were significantly improved compared to the control group with the oral consumption of mandarins.

Tuberose

The tuberose grows from tubers in the ground and produces highly fragrant white waxy flowers. The flowers have been distilled for use in perfumery since the 17th century and was an integral component of the perfume used by Marie Antoinette called Sillage de la Reine. Other notes in the French queen’s original fragrance included, sandalwood, jasmine, iris and cedar. It remains a popular floral note for perfumes, either in stand-alone Tuberose fragrances or mixed floral scents. The supercritical CO2 extract has potent antimicrobial activity primarily in regard to Staphylococcus aureus. It has been shown to significantly reduce bacterial growth when applied as a cream (Ghosh PK et al, 2016).

Jasmine Sambac

Jasmine sambac is a member of the olive family of shrubs and vines of which there are at least 200 species that are indigenous to warm and tropical climates. The flowers are highly fragrant and can be white, yellow or reddish. Jasmine absolute used in this preparation is made through the technique of enfleurage which involves the juxtaposition of jasmine petals against cold fat allowing the natural absorption of the oils derived from the petal with subsequent addition of alcohol. The alcohol then evaporates and leaves behind jasmine absolute. Although beautiful alone, it also enhances the other fragrant oils. Studies have shown that topical jasmine sambac has a positive effect on ultraviolet-induced photoaging. In particular, it has been shown that jasmine sambac exhibits both collagen-promoting effects and antioxidant activity on ultraviolet-damaged fibroblasts and as well activations of certain MAPKS including P38, ERK and JNK and as well premature senescence was remarkably attenuated (Ho CC et al, 2021).

Rose

The rose used is a blend of Moroccan and Bulgarian rose. The component of the rose is the flower and the technique of procurement is absolute which is conducted through solvent extraction rather than steam distillation. Although the absolute rose is used primarily for its fragrant quality it also has significant application for its skin rejuvenating effects. Harvesting of the flowers is done by hand before sunrise and distilled the same day. Like the Jasmine and tuberose, the essential oil is made from petals through enfleurage (i.e solvent extraction) or steam distillation. The two primary roses are rose damask and rose centifolia. Among the key compounds that contribute to the distinctive scent of rose oil are beta-damascenones where its extent in a preparation is a marker for the quality of rose oil. Although present in very small quantities in rose oil the various damasconones represent most of the fragrance. In one study rose absolute was cultured with keratinocytes. There was no evidence of toxicity however the level of involucrin, an early marker for keratinocyte differentiation increased. Rose absolute increased involucrin expression at the messenger RNA level. In addition, rose absolute was able to accelerate and enhance filaggrin in cultured keratinocytes. In addition, rose absolute was associated with a reduction in keratinocyte proliferation. Hence it does address important beneficial effects on the epidermal layer. (Kim JH et al, 2010).

Frankincense

Frankincense represents a tree resin that is derived from the Boswellia plant. True frankincense is produced by certain Boswellia plants including Boswellia (B). sacra, B. frereana, B. serrata, and B. papyrifera. It has been used as a sacred incense burned in temples dating back to biblical times and before. In fact, the Egyptians used Frankincense not only in rituals but also from a medicinal perspective including its utilization for embalming mummies and treating wounds. Frankincense has a uniquely citrusy, sweet, and powdery scent. While it is a highly fragrant resin it has great medicinal properties including its role as a potent anti-inflammatory agent. The primary constituent of frankincense is an oil, but it also contains terpenes which are very anti-inflammatory and will diminish the release of elastase. Boswellia preparations inhibit 5-lipoxygenase and prevent the release of leukotrienes. Boswellic acids (BAs) are pentacyclic triterpenes extracted from the gum resins of the tropical tree Boswellia serrata. They have significant anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory activities as well as stimulatory effects on

fibroblasts. Significant amelioration of certain parameters of photoaging, roughness and fine lines were improved with Boswellia extract.

Magnolia Champaca

The Magnolia champaca flowers are exceptionally fragrant blossoms that are native to Southeast Asia. The shrub which is the source of the champaca produces a very complete citrus aroma that has a specific calming and relaxing effect on the mind and body. By relaxing the body, it indirectly has the ability to reduce wrinkles. In essence, it reduces the signs of visible stress. The champaca tree shrub produces a complex citrus aroma. It has distinctive aromatherapy benefits which can sooth, calm and relax the mind which delivers anti-aging results. The champaca shrub also has natural astringent properties and hence reduce inflammation and result in toning and firming. Champaca has natural antioxidant effects and has significant moisturizing properties as well. Magnolia champaca, commonly known as champak, is a well-known tree due to its highly fragrant flowers. Champak floral scent is attributed to a complex mix of volatile organic compounds. These aromatic flowers are widely used in the flavors and fragrances industry. However, it also has certain anti-aging effects as well. Magnolia extract derived from the flowers inhibited NF-kappa B gene expression. Upregulation of NF-kappa B activity contributes to photoaging and therefore a product like Magnolia that is a direct inhibitor would be expected to have anti-aging properties. Among the effects of photoaging that are abrogated are keratinocyte hyperproliferation and degradation of collagen and elastic fibers. The effective agent in magnolia is magnolol. Magnolia also down-regulates a number of inflammatory mediators like TNF alpha, interleukin 6 and interleukin 10 and has been shown to reduce photoaging in mice exposed to UVB.

Sandalwood

Sandalwood is an aromatic wood along with rose wood and cinnamon. It has been used for thousands of years since ancient Egyptian times for embalming mummies. The fragrance is unique being unusually warm and velvety. However, it has an established role in aromatherapy and in facial rejuvenation. Cyclic adenosine monophosphate phosphodiesterases (PDEs) regulate pro-inflammatory cytokine production. East Indian sandalwood oil has significant anti-inflammatory properties and has been shown to reduce eczema and psoriasis symptoms respectively. It significantly attenuates the proinflammatory cytokine adenosine monophosphate phosphodiesterase. Sandalwood suppressed total cellular PDE activity. One of the effects of photoaging is enhanced melanocytic activity and melanocytic hyperplasia. Sandalwood is a significant inhibitor of tyrosinase and therefore has application as a topical agent that reduces pigmentation (Sharma M et al, 2016).

A Few Key Summary Points of the Rejuvenating Oils Found in the Collesta Face Oil

The face oil is a mixture of potent rejuvenating oils derived from algae, sea buckthorn oil, grapeseed, argan, apricot kernel and camellia.

In constructing the face oil, the essential oils and absolute extracts found in the perfume are also used in the face oil as each fragrant botanical oil has a long-established role in beauty regimes dating back to ancient times. Although the fragrant oils are cumulatively at only 1.5%, this percentage could provide a therapeutic benefit when blended together. They have been discussed under the eau de parfum but also have been addressed in the original scientific summary of the Collesta Cream and Toner. The beneficial effects of the fragrant botanicals are discussed above. The non-fragrant “carrier” oils (i.e. the algal, camellia, sea buckthorn, argan, and grapeseed) have positive moisturizing and rejuvenating effects on the skin. When mixed with the aforesaid exquisite essential oils, components of ancient beauty rituals, the end product is a very beautiful rejuvenating oil. In addition, the final mixture is infused with 24 karat gold which also has skin rejuvenating properties as discussed below. By mixing the essential oils with these important carrier oils, the efficacy of the essential oil is enhanced because of the reduced evaporation rate and better absorption in the skin.

Grape Seed Oil

Grape seed oil is significantly high in the level of polyunsaturated fatty acids. The most common fatty acid is omega-6.

Grape seed oil has significantly elevated levels of tocopherols and steroids. The concentration of vitamin E is relatively low in grapeseed oil compared to other vegetable oils. Grape seeds are an important source of proanthocyanidins which might prevent the development of cancer. A study, published in the journal Molecular Nutrition & Food Research, found that grape seeds have properties that can reduce the severity of skin cancer in a pre-clinical mouse model (Katiyar SK et al, 2017). In a pre-clinical mouse model, supplementation of a control diet (AIN76A) with grape seed at a concentration that varied from 0.2% to 0.5% had a significantly reduced number of UV-induced skin tumors and as well there was inhibition of their growth. The basis was reflective of (i) Promotion of the repair of damaged DNA by nuclear excision repair mechanisms, and (ii) DNA repair-dependent stimulation of the immune system.

Among potentially beneficial effects of grape seed oil on the skin are skin whitening, an increase in moisture content and the promotion of dermal elasticity and collagen synthesis via its direct inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, collagenase, and elastase (Michaelidis et al, Molecules, 2021).

Argan Oil

Argan oil is both edible and used topically for its enormous benefits on the skin. Argan oil is derived from the kernels of Argania spinosa. The cosmetic version is raw as opposed to roasted in the setting of argan’s use as an edible product. The kernels that make Argan oil are collected from the fruit of the argan tree (Argania spinosa (L.). The tree is endemic to Morocco where it grows in a forest designated the argan forest. While the argan forest is the exclusive source of the oil, the supply is large enough to meet a global demand. It is very costly because of its limited supply and hence it is very costly. There are oils on the market sold as argan oil that are fraudulent and or adulterated. It is critical that the argan oil that is made is derived from fruit that has fallen to the ground as the fruit that falls to the ground would be considered ripe and having the highest concentrations of tocopherols and phospholipids that are key in the efficacy of argan oil.

The fallen fruit are picked by women in the argan forest as opposed to being prematurely removed from the tree. The mature fruit has a brownish color. The immature fruit will not have the full benefits derived from the ripe fruit.

The oil extracted from the kernel is rich in critical nutrients including vitamin A, vitamin E, omega-6 fatty acids, linoleic acid and antioxidants. Argan oil is produced through the cold-pressed technique. Cold-pressed oils are produced by screw-pressing the entire kernel and seed from the plant at room temperature. There is no addition of further chemicals. In this regard cold-pressed oils are considered virgin oils.

Argan oil has a number of positive effects on the skin including its ability to reconstitute the moisture content of the skin, correct skin pH and also have a positive anti-aging effect.

The oil derived from the ripe fruit has a very high elemental content. Argan oil prepared from fully ripe fruit consistently presented a higher element content necessarily reflecting a higher element content in argan kernels. The largest variation in element content was observed between the unripe (green) and ripe (yellow) fruit. This variation was particularly significant for Ca, P, Mg, Cu and Fe.

Argan oil has been shown in clinical studies to significantly improve elasticity grossly and biologically in patients who directly apply the argan oil to their skin (Boucetta et al 2015). It also has a therapeutic effect on acne due to a discernible reduction in sebum production (Dubrev et al 2007.) Recent works on argan oil in prooxidative and inflammatory animal/human models provide a convergent sound support for the antioxidant/anti-inflammatory role of the peroxisomal enzyme, acyl-CoA oxidase type 1 (ACOX1). ACOX1 produces lipid mediators directly involved in the resolution of the inflammation, defining this protein as a resolving (Vamecq J et al, 2018).

Camellia Oil

Camellia japonica oil has a long history of cosmetic usage traditionally in the oriental region as a protectant to keep the health of skin and hair. Camellia is a brilliant flowering plant that is indigenous to eastern and southern Asia from the Himalayas east to Japan and Indonesia. Endogenous; there are many species and hybrids. Camellia oil has putative anti-inflammatory effects. It has been established that integral to skin aging is a reduction in type I collagen presumably reflective of a reduced synthesis of collagen by fibroblasts. As a first step to this end, human COL1A2 promoter luciferase assay was performed in human dermal fibroblast cells. Camellia japonica oil was determined to activate the human COL1A2 promoter in a concentration-dependent manner. While matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 activity was inhibited by Camellia Japonica oil, human type I procollagen synthesis was also induced by Camellia and hence the effects of this oil is clearly one that is restorative to the dermal architecture. In addition, transepidermal moisture loss reduced in association with the application of Camellia oil (Jung E et al, 2007).

Apricot Kernel Oil

This oil has long been used in hair and face creams where it was introduced into the Chinese culture likely over a 1000 years ago

Paradoxically the benefits to the skin have not been specifically explored. However, its beneficial effects at extracutaneous sites have been explored whereby the scientific discoveries made at these different sites would have direct application to rejuvenating effects in the skin. For example, patients suffering from keratoconjunctivitis SICCA related to urban particulate matter exposure benefit from the topical application of apricot kernel oil where it has been shown to reduce metalloproteinase activity and down-regulate TNF alpha and interleukin 6 for which the net effect is reduced epithelial apoptosis and inflammation. The main oils are oleic oil, linoleic (22.41%), palmitic (3.14%), stearic (1.4%), linolenic (0.90%), and palmitoleic (0.70%) acid.

Algae Oil

Algae Oil – 40% docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) is a vegan alternative to animal-derived sources of Omega-3 essential fatty acids. It is derived from Schizochytrium species of algae. The oil that is produced has a very unique bright orange to red appearance. It also has a characteristic flavor and aroma. Its viscosity is temperature dependent. Due to naturally occurring saturated fatty acids, the viscosity varies. The viscosity increases as temperature decreases. Algae oil contains 40% docosahexaenoic acid.

Having a minimum of 40% docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), this oil has been growing in popularity as a plant-based supplement option of omega-3 fatty acids essential for the human body and overall health. Algae oil, often referred to as algal, when applied directly to the skin provides deep moisturization, anti-aging properties, and can improve overall skin color. Algal oils do not have cholesterol and they also do not have an unpleasant fish odor associated with the fish-derived version of docosahexaenoic acid. They are also no contaminants such as mercury. Algal oil is odorless and tasteless. Docosahexaenoic acid is a principal fatty acid found in neurological tissue, retina rod outer segments, heart muscle, and sperm cells. Limited storage of these fatty acids in adipose tissue suggests that a dietary source is needed. Microalgae are an important alternative source of DHA and are the basis of the high content of DHA in fish. One of the key proteins mediating the inflammatory signals in UV-induced injury is cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), which catalyzes the biosynthesis process of prostaglandins. In addition to sunscreens, some photoprotective agents are needed to provide advantages against UV-induced skin damage. The fatty acids derived from fish oil have been considered to be associated with the skin’s photoprotection. Omega-3 can decrease the production of proinflammatory eicosanoids through direct competition with the metabolism of arachidonic acid. Alternative effects of omega-3 polyunsaturated acids for the suppression of UV-induced suppression of keratinocyte damage is the regulation of COX-2, NF-Κb, and mitogen-activated protein kinase Interleukin (IL)-8, a proinflammatory cytokine belonging to the C-X-C chemokine subfamily, is of major significance in the mediation of UVB-induced keratinocyte inflammation. DHA reduces IL-8 by 65% after UV irradiation. DHA inhibits UV-induced apoptosis, increasing the Bax/Bcl-2 ratio and caspase-3 activity, and decreased COX-2 by the inhibition of a COX-2 mRNA stabilizer in keratinocytes.

Sea Buckthorn Oil

Hippophae Rhamnoides is the proper binomial designation for sea buckthorn. Other less formal designations include sandthorn, sallow thorn, or seaberry. Its classification includes the Oleaster family and Hippophae L. and of the Hippophae rhamnoides L. species.

Sea-buckthorn oil represents an extraction product procured from the fruit and seeds of sea buckthorn. There are numerous ingredients in the oil that make it a very attractive agent that has been successfully used in the cosmetic industry and in medicine for many years. Valuable substances contained in sea-buckthorn oil could be valuable in producing smooth glowing appearing skin. Its unique unsaturated fatty acids, such as palmitoleic acid (omega-7) and gamma-linolenic acid (omega-6), give sea-buckthorn oil skin regeneration and repair properties. As the gamma-linolenic acid is converted to prostaglandins, sea-buckthorn oil protects could have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties (Zielinska et al, 2017). Studies have suggested that Sea Buckhorn can restore lipid integrity in the stratum corneum. It has significant photoprotective effects including an inhibition of the formation of reactive oxygen species likely through hydrolysable tannins, a major antioxidant found in sea buckthorn (Upadhyay et al, 2009). 5% sea buckthorn was very effective in improving the skin barrier function leading to better retention of moisture. The study was conducted over a period of almost 3 months. Skin hydration and transepidermal water loss were performed whereby objectives differences were observed (Pak et al, 2014).

Studies have shown that human keratinocytes and fibroblasts subjected to UVA or UVB radiation demonstrated a reduction in the generation of reactive oxygen species when incubated with sea buckthorn oil. Sea buckthorn oil can reduce UV-induced reactive oxygen species generation. Sea buckthorn oil increases the level of non-enzymatic antioxidants such as glutathione (GSH), thioredoxin (Trx), and vitamins E and A. Moreover, it stimulates the activity of Nrf2 leading to enhanced antioxidant enzyme activity. Sea buckthorn oil treatment increases the level of phospholipids and free fatty acids, while simultaneously decreasing the cannabinoid receptor expression in UV-irradiated keratinocytes and fibroblasts (Gogetik et al, 2018). The oral ingestion of sea buckthorn has been associated with a decrease in wrinkle formation following the administration of UV irradiation in a murine model. The sea buckthorn also significantly reduced transdermal water loss and is associated with an increase in skin moisture content. Its oral ingestion in the animals resulted in a reduction in metalloproteinase-9 expression while superoxide dismutase activity was increased dramatically (Hwang et al; Jadoon et al, 2015). Sea buckthorn can also accelerate wound healing compared to conventional silver sulfadiazine. The best combination in fact was a mixture of olive oil and sea buckthorn. The hybrid sea buckthorn and olive oil combination was associated with improved epithelialization, mature granulation tissue, and an intact basement membrane zone (Edraki et al, 2014).

Calendula Oil

Calendula is represented by about 15 species. Calendula is a fast-growing annual herb, easy to germinate and simple to care for. It is a perennial plant that is considered part of the daisy family. They are found in North America but they are native to western Europe, southwestern Asia, and the Mediterranean. The common name "marigold", a contraction of "Mary's gold” and has a direct reference to the Virgin Mary. The petals have been used in various ceremonies and rituals for hundreds of years; the ritual participants would wear garlands of calendula in their hair. It is a plant that is known for its magical properties more so than its medicinal value. However, it is evident that this magical plant has significant and beneficial effects on the skin through its anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties along with its ability to accelerate wound healing. The chemical composition of the plant explains the rejuvenating effects of this plant as it contains flavonol glycosides, triterpene oligoglycosides, oleanane-type triterpene glycosides, saponins, and a sesquiterpene glucoside. Calendula flower is often used in skin care products because of assistance in cell rejuvenation, wound healing, reducing inflammation, soothing, and softening the skin. The beneficial effects on the skin are attributable to the presence of flavonoids, coumarins, quinones, volatile oil, carotenoids, and amino acids. Calendula officinalis has shown to stimulate physiological regeneration and epithelization of wounded skin. In one study Calendula officinalis produced valuable effects on the skin including the induction of skin tightness and the promotion of hydration of the stratum corneum. Another study incorporated Calendula into a hydrogel formulation and found that Calendula promoted efficient collagen fiber production, improved skin repair, and no signs of dermal toxicity. Thus, the hydrogel presents compatible properties for the controlled release of calendula extract used as a bandage to promote cicatrization.

24 kt Gold Dust

Cosmetic gold crumbs are also found in the Collesta Face Oil. Gold promotes the youthful regeneration and fortification of the skin simply by contact with the dermis. The gold crumbs are purchased from CornucAupia; they can be safely mixed into cosmetic formulations and enhance the luxurious feel of the treatment. The crumbs are designed to mix seamlessly with all liquids and oils, retaining the luster of the gold. Other putative effects of gold include a reduction in collagen depletion, lightening of the skin, and increasing elasticity.