A Novel Botanical Face Cream with Theoretical Skin Rejuvenating and Enhancement Benefits

 

INTRODUCTION

The pathophysiology of the aging skin is complex. All layers of the skin are affected including the epidermis, the dermis and subcutaneous fat. Each of the structures undergoes progressive changes that result in   the skin exhibiting signs of chronological aging.  The aged skin is a key and integral component of the aging process although when examining organ systems, the sun exposed parts of the skin exhibit gross and microscopic alterations that are more dramatic than those seen in other organ systems.  While it is very easy to detect the gross morphologic differences between young versus older skin, a similar obvious chronological discrimination is not observed when examining the small or large intestine.  The hallmarks of skin aging include fine wrinkles, thin skin with diminished subcutaneous fat, manifesting as somewhat hollowed appearing cheeks and eyes. In addition, the skin becomes dry and lacks its natural luster. Hair becomes thinner and loses pigment. The skin loses its inherent resilience whereby the laxity produces a sagging appearance most dramatic in proximal extremities and in truncal skin.  An accumulation of free radicals and reactive oxygen species is critical to the aging process. As well the repair mechanisms are impaired. (Rittie L, Fisher GJ, 2015)  

The basal layer of the epidermis is the proliferative component of the epidermis and other layers of the epidermis are non-proliferative. The keratinocyte progressively differentiates into a corneocyte. The corneocytes define the top layer of the skin and falls under the designation of stratum corneum whose main function is a barrier to retain moisture and prevent the entry of external material including fluids through the lipid rich layers found within the stratum corneum.  There is some reduction in the ability to retain moisture with age and as well the lipid production is diminished in the stratum corneum. There is also progressive flattening of the epidermis with loss of the rete ridge pattern. As a result, with age the epidermis becomes fragile and hence is more susceptible to external injury mediated by shearing and other exogenous adverse stimuli. (Li se Q et al, 2003) (Rittie L, Fisher GJ, 2015)  

Thermal regulation is also altered by age. With age, there is a reduction in sweating from the eccrine and apocrine glands such that the elderly are very susceptible to heat stroke when there is a heat wave.  

Pigmentation becomes uneven with age. In younger individuals, melanocytes, the cell that gives rise to melanin pigment, are relatively evenly distributed but with aging the number of melanocytes are decreased but as well there can be very focal areas on the skin that are chronically exposed to sun where melanocyte density is significantly increased. In addition melanocytes can appear atypical producing a morphology that simulates a significant melanocytic dysplasia most notably early lentigo maligna. 

Enhanced expression of the matrix metalloproteinase within the skin is a critical inciting trigger to the pathogenesis of normal human skin aging and contributes significantly to ultraviolet irradiation as a factor accelerating skin aging.  The metalloproteinases have potent collagenolytic and elastolytic properties whereby   enhanced and at times dysregulated expression results in progressive attenuation of the connective tissue matrix of the skin, the sequela of which is lax and wrinkled skin, defining the gross morphologic concept of the aged skin.  (Reuben PM et al, 2001)

There are certain collagenolytic metalloproteinases that are preferentially upregulated in the skin compared to other metalloproteinases including metalloproteinase 1 (interstitial collagenase), metalloproteinase 8 (neutrophil collagenase), and metalloproteinase 13 (collagenase 3).  It has been suggested that there is a minimal role for metalloproteinase 8 in the pathogenesis of both normal skin aging (i.e. intrinsic aging) and photoaging. The main metalloproteinases that result in skin aging are metalloproteinases 1, 9 and 13.  It is quite likely that wrinkles most apparent on sun exposed skin of the face are the result of loss of collagens 1, 3, and 7 along with fibrillin in the superficial dermis of chronically sun-exposed skin, reflecting a reduced production of these matrix protein molecules in concert with upregulation of metalloproteinases, stromelysin A, and gellatinase.   Free radicals and inflammation are likely additional factors that would accelerate the degradation of the dermal connective tissue fiber matrix. (Moe SM et al, 2000) (Sudel KM et al, 2003. 

The main structural components of the dermis are elastic tissue, collagen and the gylosaminoglycans represented by hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate and dermatan sulfate.  The elastic tissue can be broken down into the superficial elastic fiber network and the deeper seated reticular dermal elastic fibers.  The basic components of the elastic tissue are elastic and microfibrils. The microfibrils provide the resilience and tautness that one associated with youth and or a youthful appearance while the elastic defines the stretchable component of the elastic fibers.  The The elastic fibers of the superficial papillary dermis define a highly orderly geometric network in the skin and comprise the vertically oriented eulanin fibers and the horizontally positioned oxytalin fibers. As a point of reiteration these fibers have an almost pure microfibril composition representing an intimate admidxture of fibrillin and glycoprotein contributing to the resilience of youthful skin minor component of the dermal matrix in fact is elastic tissue while much of the remaining components of the dermis are represented by collagen and hyaluronic acid. r.  Apreserved and healthy elastic tissue and collagen plexus defines the   Ying and Yang  of normal skin.  One of the most significant deleterious effects of chronic sun exposure is the disappearance of the microfibril plexus of the papillary dermis due to the digestive effects of metalloproteinase which given their superficial location result in the appearance of wrinkles and loose skin. The collagen network defines the main structural component of the dermis whereby most of represents type I collagen while type III collagen represents 15%. Collagen like the elastic fibers is elaborated by fibroblasts. Collagen is initially synthesized as procollagen which then is converted into collagen. 

The microscopic appearance of the wrinkle is due to the loss of epidermal and dermal integrity. The epidermis becomes attenuated with loss of the classic rete rige architecture There is a marked descrease in glycosaminoglycan contente specially dermatitis  sulfate. The epidermis shows a reduction in critical markers of epidermal differentiation including filaggrin, trasnlutaminase and keatohyalin granules. As a consequence the stratum corneum is deficient and therefore the ability to retain water is adversely effects. There is also a loss of the papillary dermal elastic tissue plexus.Hence the combination of epidermal thinning, a deficient stratum corneum, papillary elastic fiber attenuation and a decrease in the collagen within the basement membrane zone will translate clinicaly into wrinkled skin 

Over and above the critical role of sun block in reducing the deleterious effects  of UVA and UVB radiation, a cream targeting the pathways that lead to metalloproteinase downregulation, reduce inflammation and improve barrier function of the epidermis could have significant beneficial effects and potentially have other factors that could enhance combined epidermal and dermal integrity.  Perhaps one of the first agents shown scientifically to have significant anti-aging effects was the retinoid derivative retinoic acid A.  It has been postulated and shown that the retinoids decrease the natural concentrations of tissue metalloproteinases but also upregulate endogenous metalloproteinase inhibitors.  Retinoids have the ability to bind specific nuclear receptors belonging to the steroid thyroid superfamily of ligand specific nuclear transcription factors whereby these receptors are divided into two subtypes: the retinoic acid receptor alpha and retinoic acid receptor gamma which bind tretinoin and secondly the retinoid X receptors alpha, beta, and gamma binding to 9-cis-retinoic acid.  (Brenneisen P et al, 2002) (Fligiel SE et al, 2003) (Brennan M et al, 2003)

The exact mechanisms by which the retinoids control the metalloproteinase milieu is not completely known although the metalloproteinases presumably have receptors for retinoic acid. 

The aged skin has certain reproducible features including epidermal atrophy, dysmaturation of the epidermis, irregular melanization of the epidermis, loss of the superficial elastic fiber plexus and the acquisition of abnormally produced elastic tissue referred to as solar elastosis with a commensurate attenuation in collagen production. (Hornebeck W et al, 2003) (Reuben PM et al, 2001)

These are certain other natural plant derived extracts where studies have suggested that they may function in a fashion that is analogous to the retinoic acids in terms of their inhibitory effects on metalloproteinases and other effects related to a reduction in inflammation. In addition, they may have additional effects that these botanical products could have on the skin such as enhancement of moisture retention and correcting dyschromia via reduced melanization. 

Among these natural occurring extracts are boswellia extract, Viola tricolor, peony extract, buckthorn extract, rice jasmine pedicle, red ginseng, and turmeric extract. These botanical agents have varied effects    

A cream has been created that represents a combination of valuable and effective botanicals in concentrations that have been shown in published medical studies to be therapeutically beneficial for the skin. The cream contains effective concentrations of turmeric extract, viola tricolor, ginseng, buckhorn, rice jasmine pedicle, peony extract, niacinamide, and Boswellia extract. All of these agents have potentially interesting and diverse effects that are relevant to the antiaging process and provide a prophylactic measure to lessen the cutaneous aging process.  Niacinamide has also been added and while it is not a botanical extract it has certain beneficial effects that are synergistic with the aforesaid botanical extracts. In addition, natural occurring fragrant oils of rose, jasmine, tuberose and frankencense have been added to enhance its aromatic quality. The rose oil is at a concentration that could have beneficial cutaneous effects. 

 

This antiaging cream uses as its vehicle a neutral base similar to any basic common including natural moisturizing agents and those with some sun blocking properties.

  The basis of the combined ingredients as a topical product that has the potential to enhance the intrinsic health of the epidermis and dermis will be discussed presently. All of the products are naturally occurring plant derived compounds with scientifically proven effects that would be deemed efficacious in maintaining and promoting healthy skin. An additional non-botanical agent is used, namely niacin.  Each ingredient will be considered separately with a focus on   beneficial effects on the skin that each of the products have based on published studies. 

Each of the components of the cream will be discussed in some detail; an emphasis will be given on the effects of each product for facial rejuvenation. 

The name designation of Collesta is apropos given its theoretical beneficial effects that would enhance  the collagen and elastic fiber network of the skin.

VIOLA TRICOLOR (3% concentration)

Viola Tricolor is an integral component of Collesta.  I have chosen a concentration of 3% based on scientific papers suggesting a concentration in this realm as one that has potentially rejuvenating effects.

Viola tricolor is a unique and distinctive plant that has long been known for its significant anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity.  Another term for Viola tricolor is heartsease, also known as the royal pansy.  The active ingredients in Viola tricolor responsible for its potent medicinal properties are polyphenols (Rimkiene et al, 2003).  The utilization of Viola tricolor has been established for many years defining an integral ingredient in therapeutic phytomedicine (Vukics et al., 2008a). Flavonoids, saponins, ascorbic acid and tocopherol are among potent products found in Viola Tricolor (Rimkienè et al., 2003).  One of the most critical elements are the antioxidant flavonoid compounds especially rutin  (Piana et al., 2013, Vukics et al., 2008a and Vukics et al., 2008b).  Flavonoids, which are found in this plant, have been utilized in dermatology and in cosmetics for many years.  It has been shown that the flavonoids are able to permeate the stratum corneum and reach the viable layers of the epidermis and dermis.  Rutins, one of the effective compounds in the Viola based flavonoids, are known to inhibit collagenase and metalloproteinase 9.  Rutin is a type of quercetin glycoside and is also referred to as vitamin P representing a member of the bioflavonoid family. The rutins represent potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents. Rutin is also capable of decreasing capillary fragility and has an inhibitory effect of intravascular thrombosis.  

3 % Viola tricolor gel (3%) or sulfadiazine (1%, used as a positive control) can prevent allodynia associated with UVB irradiation. Edema is inhibited as well by Viola tricolor.  The increase in the metalloproteinase can be significantly reduced by Viola tricolor gel (3%) following ultraviolet irradiation. In addition to rutins, salicylic acid and the tannins are likely additional potent products that contribute to the beneficial effects of the ingredient.  Interestingly, the other types of Viola, not specifically Viola tricolor, exert inhibitory properties on matrix metalloproteinase 1.  It has been postulated and shown by Moon and coworkers that the flavonol glycoside derived from Viola reduced UV induced metalloproteinase I expression.  As previously mentioned matrix metalloproteinase 1 is upregulated in photoaged skin and contributes to the degradation of the collagen and elastic tissue matrix of the skin.   The tannins also found in Viola tricolor have bactericidal and fungicidal activity and facilitate the healing process of wounds, burns, and inflammation 

 

Toiu and coworkers found that Viola tricolor extract 50 mg tincture per 100 g.b.w. reduced polymorphonuclear leukocytic and monocytic percentages and the percent of activating circulating phagocytes, corroborative of the anti-inflammatory properties of viola.  Another study found that rutin in the crude extract of the Violet tricolor had better antioxidant activity largely attributable to the high level of polyphenols, flavonoids and tannins. One of the critical flavonoids at high concentrations is rutin and therefore studies focusing on a cream containing rutin would likely be relevant to the effects of viola tricolor in a cream vehicle base given the naturaly high levels of rutins found in viola tricolor.In the study by Choi and coworkers, the authors examined the effects of 2% rutin cream on antiaging.  At that percentage, the rutin reduces H2O2 induced cellular senescence. Rutin reduces metalloproteinase I and enhances the production of collagen 1. The length and number of wrinkles is significantly reduced by 30%. It also objectively improves dermal density and repairs elasticity.  Dermal density improved 10.73% after 2 weeks and 20.16% after 4 weeks of application of the rutin-containing cream in the experimental group. Rutin-containing cream improved skin elasticity 25.34% after 2 weeks and 40.50% after 4 weeks of application. The length of crow's feet improved by 13.45% after 2 weeks and 23.90% after 4 weeks. Additionally, the area of crow's feet improved by 14.66% after 2 weeks and 27.19% after 4 weeks. The number of under-eye wrinkles improved by 31.96% after 2 weeks and 49.48% after 4 weeks (Toiu et al, 2007).  

 

The polysaccharides from Viola tricolor have been shown to improve epidermal moisturization by increasing aquaporins-3 activity within the dermis. In the skin, aquaporins-3 function as the mechanism that allows water to move against the concentration gradient to where water is deficient. Improving osmotic function is a novel approach for improving skin moisture. Research studies have indicated that aquaporins-3 are involved in skin hydration, elasticity and barrier function and wound healing. Over and above the flavonoids, salicylic acid and the rutins, there are additional ingredients that contribute to its efficacy including keratinoids, coumarins, sapponins, ascorbic acid, and tocopherol. 

 

 

 

 

HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES (SEA BUCKTHORN) (2% concentration) 

 

Hippophae Rhamnoides is the proper binomial designation for sea buckthorn.  Other less formal designations include sandthorn, sallow    thorn or seaberry. Its classification includes the or Oleaster family and Hippophae L. and of the Hippophae rhamnoides L. species. 

  Sea-buckthorn oil represents an extraction product procured from the fruit and seeds of sea buckthorn. There are numerous ingredients in the oil that make it a very attractive agent that has been successfully used in the cosmetic industry and in medicine for many years. Valuable substances contained in sea-buckthorn oil could be valuable in producing a smooth glowing appearing skin.  Its unique unsaturated fatty acids, such as palmitoleic acid (omega-7) and gamma-linolenic acid (omega-6), give sea-buckthorn oil skin regeneration and repair properties.  As the gamma-linolenic acid is converted to prostaglandins, sea-buckthorn oil protects could have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties (Zielinska et al, 2017).

 

Studies have suggested that Sea Buckhorn can restore lipid intregrity in the stratum corneum.  It has significant photoprotective effects including an inhibition of the formation of reactive oxygen species likely through hydrolysable tannins, a major antioxidant found in sea buckthorn (Upadhyay et al, 2009). 

 5% sea buckthorn was very effective in improving the skin barrier function leading to better retention of moisture.  The study was conducted over a period of almost 3 months. Skin hydration and transepidermal water loss were performed whereby objectives differences were observed (Pak et al, 2014)

Studies have shown that human keratinocytes and fibroblasts subjected to UVA or UVB radiation demonstrated a reduction in the generation of reactive oxygen species when incubated with sea buckthorn oil. Sea buckthorn oil can reduce UV induced reactive oxygen species generation. 

Sea buckthorn oil increases the level of non-enzymatic antioxidants such as glutathione (GSH), thioredoxin (Trx) and vitamins E and A. Moreover, it stimulates the activity of Nrf2 leading to enhanced antioxidant enzyme activity.  Sea buckthorn oil treatment increases the level of phospholipid and free fatty acids, while simultaneously decreasing the cannabinoid receptor expression in UV irradiated keratinocytes and fibroblasts (Gogetik et al, 2018).

The oral ingestion of sea buckthorn has been associated with a decrease in wrinkle formation following the administration of UV irradiation in a murine model. The sea buckthorn also significantly reduced transdermal water loss and is associated with an increase in skin moisture content.   Its oral ingestion in the animals resulted in a reduction in metalloproteinase-9 expression while superoxide dismutase   activity was increased dramatically (Hwang et al; Jadoon et al, 2015).

Sea buckthorn can also accelerate wound healing compared to conventional silver sulfadiazine. The best combination in fact was a mixture of olive oil and sea buckthorn.  The hybrid sea buckthorn and olive oil combination was associated with improved epithelialization, mature granulation tissue and an intact basement membrane zone (Edraki et al, 2014). 

In summation sea buckthorn has many beneficial effects including the improvement of the water barrier hence exhibiting natural moisturizing properties, photoprotective effects, accelerating the natural healing process in traumatized skin and exhibiting some additional benefit in reversing photoaging.  

WHITE PEONY (0.5%) (1% in cream)

 

The white peony has been used in traditional cosmetic practice in Chinese primarily as an oral treatment for pigmentary disorders for centuries; it was a prized extract knowns for its skin lighting effects. Direct application of white peony extract to the skin 1   Peony extract significantly inhibited poly (I:C)-induced expression of crucial psoriatic cytokines, such as IL-6, IL-8, CCL20 and TNF-α, via down-regulation of NF-κB signaling pathway in human keratinocytes. In addition, peony extract   inhibited poly (I:C)-induced inflammasome activation, in terms of IL-1β and caspase-1 secretion. Finally, peony extract markedly inhibited poly (I:C)-increased NLRP3, an important component of inflammasome. These results indicate that peony extract has an inhibitory effect on poly (I:C)-induced inflammatory reaction of keratinocytes, suggesting that peony extract can be developed for the treatment of various proinflammatory disorders including psoriasis.  Another study examined the efficacy of paeniflorin at a concentration of 0.5% in reducing wrinkles. The results of this study indicated that there was a significant reduction in facial wrinkling when applied daily for 8 weeks both in the context of skin replica models and blinded assessment by a dermatologist. The 0.5% paeniflorin was extracted from the root of the Paeonia albiflora (Hunt et al, 2010; Choi et al, 2015; Lee et al, 2006; Lee et al, 2006; Qiu et al, 2016) 

 

FERMENTED RED GINSENG (1%)

  

Fermented red Ginseng is likely superior to nonfermented red Ginseng for its effects on activating skin metabolism, reduce keratinization, moisturize, soften, alleviate wrinkling, and increase dermal blood circulation. Furthermore, this extract also has significant positive effects on facial wrinkles and other symptoms of facial skin aging as tested clinically, which may be due to its hormetic mode of action by stress-induced synthesis of chaperones involved in protein repair and removal of abnormal proteins.   Cell proliferation resulting from increased metabolism leads to anti-aging effects that are very valuable for cosmetics.  An increase in cell proliferation and vascular circulation are among the valuable effects.  It has inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase synthesis as well.  Red Ginseng has potent anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. Recent murine studies have shown significant attenuation of UVB induced photoaging including a reduction in wrinkles, an increase in epidermal thickness and enhanced moisture retention.   It has been shown that there is enhanced filaggrin and profilaggrin synthesis and as well there is inhibition of metalloproteinase 1. The results showed that the ginsenosides extracted from Sanchi induced the transcription of stress genes and increased the synthesis of stress proteins, especially the heat shock protein (Hsp) or Hsp70, in normal human keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts.

To evaluate the ability of red ginseng to protect the skin from photodamage, the gross and microscopic changes in the skin of hairless mice and red ginseng-treated mice exposed chronically to UV were examined. The skin of the UV-irradiated mice showed characteristic signs of photoaging, such as deep wrinkles across the back, increased epidermal thickness, prominent inflammatory cell infiltration, and many enlarged keratinizing cysts. The red ginseng treated mice showed a significantly decreased wrinkling score, minimal epidermal hyperplasia, slightly increased dermal cellularity and lack of proliferation of cysts. The mice had a cream containing red ginseng at a concentration of 0.2%, which   was associated with a reduction in the number of tumors per mouse and the delayed onset of tumors. It was concluded that the regular use of red ginseng is associated with a decrement in photoaging and photocarcinogenesis (Lee et al, 2008). Park et al, 2016; Shin et al, 2015;Cho S, 2014; Cho S et al, 2009; Kang et al, 2009; Lee HJ et al, 2009; Kim YG et al, 2009; Kim YG et al, 2008)

CURCUMIN (recommended concentration is 5% to 10% due to poor cutaneous absorption)  

An additional ingredient is curcumin, a food chemical present in turmeric.  Curcumin has been demonstrated to have potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity; strongly repressing matrix metalloproteinase 9 gene expression as well as activation of activated protein 1(AP1) induced by tumor promotors.  AP1 as implicated in the process of aging because it induces the formation of metalloproteinases, which cause degradation of interstitial collagen fibers.  Curcumin is highly hydrophobic and cannot be administered topically due to poor bioavailability.  Nevertheless, there are preparations that are composed of 10% curcumin (i.e. 500 microliters of 10% curcumin equivalent to 50 mg) that are held to promote healing.  By using the encapsulated vesicular elastic tissue delivery system, a much smaller amount (i.e. 10 micromolar units) can be used.  Overall curcumin, when ultimately delivered to the dermis, has potent UV induced oxidative stress inhibitory features. Curcumin, a component of the spice turmeric, was tested for its potential hormetic anti-aging effects as an inducer of mild stress. Young skin fibroblasts incubated with low doses of curcumin exhibit a reduction in heme oxygenase followed by a compensatory increase in glutathione S transferase activity.   Curcumin also induced nuclear factor-erythroid-2-related factor 2 accumulation in the nuclei. The use of the antioxidant N-acetyl cysteine prevented the induction of HO-1 by curcumin.  (Lima CF et al, 2010)

Curcumin induces cellular stress responses in the skin fibroblasts of the skin via phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase/Akt pathway and redox signaling. One should view curcumin as an important antioxidant. When curcumin at low doses is incubated with human skin fibroblasts.

BOSWELLIC ACID (0.5% to 2% suggest 1%) i.e. 1ML per 100 ML (0.5% in cream)

The resin of Boswellia species has been used as incense in religious and cultural ceremonies and in medicines since time immemorial. Boswellia serrata (Salai/Salai guggul), is a moderate to large sized branching tree of family Burseraceae (Genus Boswellia), grows in dry mountainous regions of India, Northern Africa and Middle East.

Boswellic acid has been used to treat various ailments in different cultures for thousands of years.   Aflapin is a novel synergistic product derived from Boswellia gum resin that is a significantly better anti-inflammatory agent compared to the Boswellia extracts presently available on the market.  The gum resins from the tropical tree Boswellia have been traditionally orally administered for the treatment of several inflammatory diseases and cancer because of their immunomodulatory and anti-inflammatory properties.  One recent study found that 0.5% concentration of Boswellic acid delivered in a neutral cream base could lead to a significant reduction in photoaging of facial skin after 30 days particularly in regards to tactile roughness and fine lines (Calzavara-Pinton P et al, 2010). Boswellic extract at 2% has a significant effect on reducing inflammation at sites of breast irradiation following a mastectomy for breast cancer.

Boswellic acids are the pentacyclic triterpenes with a strong anti-inflammatory line of action with the most important source of Boswellia being Boswellia serrata, a tropical tree that grows in India and Africa.  The Boswellia extracts are known to inhibit various metalloproteinases including metalloproteinases 1, 3, 10, and 12 transcriptions in fibroblasts and endothelial cells, especially in regards to metalloproteinase 1, hence playing a potential pivotal role in preventing the cleavage of dermal fibrillar collagen resulting in dermal damage.  Boswellia extract has an anti-inflammatory effect that is mediated by the inhibition of TAK/TAB-mediated I kappa B kinase phosphorylation that activates the nuclear factor kappa beta translocation to the nucleus.  Boswellia extract also enhances the metabolism of fibroblasts and inhibits leukocyte elastase (Pedretti A et al, 2010)  

RICE JASMINE 0.1%(0.2% in cream)

 Rice [Oryza sativa cv. indica (Oryzeae)] extracts have been used in many Asian traditional medicines for the treatment of diabetes, inflammation, gastrointestinal disorders, cardiovascular disease, and in diuretics. Furthermore, eye lotions developed from rice are a traditional Malaysian remedy and Ayurveda prescriptions also make note of the use of a rice ointment to cure skin ailments (Ahuja et al., 2008; Umadevi et al., 2012), and to combat skin aging (Burlando and Cornara, 2014). Rice based skin remedies are not limited to Asia but also defines an integral component of active ingredients utilized in a traditional Italian remedy for skin smoothing and lightening (Pieroni et al., 2004; Saikia et al., 2006)  (Costin and Hearing, 2007; Currais, 2015; Jenkins, 2002; Kammeyer and Luiten, 2015). However, detailed scientific evidence linking beneficial effects to particular components in these traditional remedies has, to this point, been limited. 

Jasmine rice panicle extract has a high content of   p-coumaric, ferulic and caffeic acids, and was not cytotoxic to the cell lines used in this study. Cells treated with extract suppressed melanogenesis via tyrosinase and TRP-2 inhibitory effects, which protect the cell from oxidative stress at doses of 0.1mg/ml or lower. The jasmine rice panicle preparations (0.1-0.2%) were safe (MII=0), and significantly (p<0.05) increased skin hydration levels relative to baseline. Skin lightening, and anti-wrinkle effects related to skin firmness and smoothness was observed, in addition to a reduction in skin wrinkling. Improvements in skin biophysics of both 0.1% and 0.2% extracts were showed to be comparable (p>0.05). Patients preferred the lower percentage at 0.1%.  In summation jasmine rice pedicle primarily through its significant concentration of phenolics likely defining the main antiaging benefit.  (Kanlayavattanakul et al, 2016).

ROSE OIL (6 drops for 8 ounces) 

 For centuries Rose oil has been thought to have beauty enhancing properties in regards the appearance of the skin.  The pathophysiologic basis is likely multifactorial. Topical in vivo applications of rose oil from the petals of Rosa damascena (Miller) have been reported to improve skin barrier function and promote keratinocyte differentiation. Furthermore, antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of rose oil have been observed. The mechanism may lie in the enhanced expression of involucrin, which is a marker of keratinocyte differentiation. Rose oil extract also increased the level of filaggrin in cultured keratinocytes. Overall the beneficial effect of rose oil is in the context of improving barrier function by its positive effects on the integrity of the stratum corneum. 

There are generally two species of roses that are used in skin care: rosa damascena and rosa centifola. The former, often hailing from Bulgaria, has a deep, potent scent; the latter, known as the cabbage rose or the Moroccan rose, has a lighter, clean and sweet scent. Both are valued for their pure essential oils, derived from the rose flowers.   It takes tens of thousands of rose blossoms, picked as they are unfolding in the early hours of dawn, to yield 1 ounce of rose essential oil. That makes rose oil one of the most expensive essential oils; it's so concentrated, however, that only a few drops are necessary to reap the benefits.

Roses are known for their intense hydrating properties, which make them perfect for mature and dry skin. Rose extract is “a cell rejuvenator that help minimize scars, stretch marks and wrinkles,” says beauty specialist and aromatherapist Janice Rosenthal, owner of Garden of Essences. “It heals broken veins and calms inflamed or sunburnt skin.”

Some of the earliest work to indicate the potential health and dermatologic benefits of R. damascene dates to the late 1970s. 

Rose essential oil acts as a superb emollient to moisturize skin, protecting the skin from moisture loss and preventing free radicals and toxins from entering the skin. The skin’s moisture barrier is a critical part of the immune system, and helps the skin maintain its proper level of nutrients.

If you strip your skin of moisture using harsh cleansers, your skin is likely to start over-producing oil to compensate. Roses can help balance the hydration of skin, which in turn can help prevent excess oil production. 

The high levels of antioxidants and fatty acids in rose essential oil and rose hip seed oil can also help maintain a proper balance of moisture in the skin, which is essential to effectively fight acne.  The high vitamin C content can also help fade acne scars and prevent new hyperpigmentation from forming.

Investigators isolated a strain of cultured cells of the plant that displayed strong resistance to UV radiation (254 nm) and generated a greater amount of polyphenols (primarily flavonoids) during the latter stages of culture growth. They found that this UV resistance was associated with increased polyphenolic production (Murphy et al, 1979).

In 2003, investigators assessed various extracts of R. damascena for its capacity as an antisolar agent in absorbing UV. The presence of flavonoids as the primary constituents of the extracts was verified before investigators identified the UV absorption spectra, with all three extracts found to be effective in absorbing UV in the 200- to 400-nm range. Next, the team incorporated the extracts into oil-in-water creams at 5% and 8% concentrations. The hydroalcoholic extract provided the highest sun protection factor (SPF), but the cream containing 5% ether extract rendered the most satisfactory appearance and stability. The authors ascribed the UV absorption ability of the extracts to the flavonoid constituents and noted that other synthetic antisolar compounds might be added to R. damascena extracts to enhance overall product efficacy (Tabrizi et al, 2003).

In 2005, Schiber et al. extracted and characterized flavonol glycosides from R. damascena petals following industrial distillation for essential oil recovery. After analyzing 22 constituents, kaempferol and quercetin were the only flavonoids (specifically, flavonols) detected, with kaempferol compounds accounting for 80% of the compounds measured. In noting the high flavonol content (approximately 16 g/kg in dry weight), the researchers concluded that R. damascene represents a promising source of natural antioxidants (Z. Naturforsch. C., 2005) 

In a late 2010 study using a reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatographic (RP-HPLC) method to simultaneously measure the flavonols, flavones, and phenolic acids as important constituents in various fruits, vegetables, and medicinal plants, R. damascena was identified as one of the species, along with Solidago virgaurea, Ginkgo biloba, and Camellia sinensis (the source of green tea), as having the highest flavonoid content (J. Agric. Food. Chem. 2010 Oct 4.) 

As German scientists explained in a 2010 article, one of the most intriguing aspects of rose essential oil is that, “For substances applied in rose oil, a clear relationship between their lipophilic character, chemical structure, and skin permeation could be confirmed.” (Schmitt S et al, 2010) 

Containing a complex array of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, rose essential oil has excellent emollient properties for moisturizing dry skin; it also offers antiseptic and astringent properties to treat acneic skin, as well as anti-inflammatory properties that help treat redness and inflammation. Rose oil can also help refine skin texture, controlling skin diseases such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. A study has even shown that rose essential oil can help heal wounds, as inhaling it inhibits water loss in the skin and lowers the concentration of cortisol (a stress hormone) in the body.

NIACINAMIDE (4%) (4% in cream)

Niacinamide, an amide of vitamin B3 (niacin), is a hydrophilic endogenous substance. Its effects after epicutaneous application have long been described in the literature. Given a sufficient bioavailability, niacinamide has antipruritic, antimicrobial, vasoactive, photo-protective, sebostatic and lightening effects depending on its concentration. Within a complex metabolic system niacinamide controls the NFκB-mediated transcription of signalling molecules by inhibiting the nuclear poly (ADP-ribose) polymerase-1 (PARP-1). Niacinamide is a well-tolerated and safe substance often used in cosmetics.  

In 2018 Philips and co-workers showed that nicotinamide and its derivatives stimulated fibrillar collagen and heat shock protein in dermal fibroblasts.  Ultraviolet radiation stimulates elastin but inhibits fibrillin 1 and 2 in dermal fibroblasts. In this study they showed that topical niacin and its derivative stimulate the expression of elastin, fibrillin 1 and 2 in nonirradiated and UVA irradiated fibroblasts and directly inhibited both elastase and metalloproteinase activity.

POLIANTHES TUBEROSA (concentrations are only at a level for achieving an aromatic scent as opposed to skin rejuvenating effects). 

Tuberoses were especially beloved by Louis XIV of France, who had them planted in the hundreds in the flower beds of the Grand Trianon at Versailles so that the scent was overpowering. They were grown in clay pots and planted directly in the ground; to keep the perfume consistently strong new specimens were rotated in, sometimes daily.

Skin Benefits: Anti-inflammatory, Anti-bacterial, Hydrating and Stimulating.

Tuberoses Protect the Skin from Infections

Tuberoses contain two major compounds that protect the skin from infections; eugenol and nerol. Eugenol kills pathogens that cause bacterial or fungal skin infections like athlete’s foot, while nerol acts as an antiseptic supplement to eugenol.

It has anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties that help to treat skin problems like acne. It is also a good remedy for cracked heels due to its healing properties. It smoothes fine lines and wrinkles as well as augmenting the moisture binding capability of the skin.  As a result, skin looks younger and suppler.

Tuberoses contain farnesol, which is responsible for promotion of collagen for a better cycle of skin cell regeneration, and also provides elastin, which maintains skin elasticity and smoothness.

• The dried and powdered tubers are used with turmeric to cure rashes in infants.
• Rub the bulbs with turmeric and butter and apply it to eliminate small red pimples of newborn child.
• Use the paste of tuberose roots on affected parts of swelling and ulcers.
• Use it externally use it for enlarged pores, acne and oily skin.

Skin conditions such as eczema are usually the result of either autoimmune disorders or bacterial and fungal infections that can be hard to get rid of. There are multiple modern therapies, and it seems no two infections are the same. Treating your skin with oils like tuberose can be a valuable addition to your skincare routine. Tuberose oil benefits include preventing bacteria from gathering in the pores of the skin and may even help control the oil that clogs the pores as well. 

 

 

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